Snæfellsnes Peninsula: Iceland in Miniature, Part 2 Western Peninsula

sdhammond2
Sep 24
4 min read

Updated: Oct 22

Our second day on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula was a big one. The day before, we had only skimmed the eastern side, so we set out early to explore the west. We wanted to catch the snowcap and low-hanging cloud drama over Kirkjufell right at sunrise. Breakfast was easy—just the bakery goods we had picked up in Borgarnes the previous day. Along the way, we paused to enjoy the sight of a pair of Icelandic horses set against a backdrop of mountains and snow. It was a picture-perfect Icelandic moment.

Picture of a rugged coast with rough weather and a fishing boat nearby in the water, as well as snow-covered mountains off in the distance — Northern Coast of Snaefellsnes Peninsula near Ondverdanesviti

Chasing the Sunrise at Kirkjufell

Snow covered cap of Kirkjufell mountain and waterfalls — Kirkjufell with Snowcap

When we arrived at Kirkjufell, no one else was there. It was refreshing to have the entire scene to ourselves. I took advantage of the solitude to capture some shots of the mountain dressed in shifting clouds. Since I didn’t have an ND filter with me, I photographed the mountain raw and natural. My usual preference is for softened, long-exposure shots, but sometimes simplicity feels right.

We didn’t linger too long at Kirkjufell because the west side of the peninsula and the Snæfellsjökull National Park awaited us.

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Lunch in Ólafsvík: A Culinary Delight

Our first planned stop was Ólafsvík, where we had an early lunch at Sker Restaurant. My wife enjoyed the Sker Hamburger, while I went for fish and chips paired with a beer. The service was excellent, and since we arrived before the lunch rush, it wasn’t busy. It was a perfect pit stop to recharge for the adventures ahead.

Ingjaldshóll Church: A Photogenic Gem

Famous Icelandic church at the top of a hill with a road sweeping up to it on a rough weather day. — Ingjaldsholl Church

Heading west, we stopped at Ingjaldshóll Church. This small white church with a red roof is perched atop a ridge. It’s very photogenic but can get crowded. To avoid the classic angle up the road, which is often full of visitors, step slightly left. This way, you can catch foreground details like marsh brush and the natural dip before the road curves upward. It gives more depth to your photograph and a fresh perspective.

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Lighthouses and Lava Fields: Nature's Masterpieces

Next, we turned south and ventured toward the rugged coast. Following the Útnesvegur and then Route 529, we reached dramatic lava landscapes framed by moss and snowcapped peaks. Before arriving at the lighthouses, we passed Skarðsvík Beach. This golden-sand beach feels almost Mediterranean but with Icelandic flair. It’s well worth stopping to explore.

Tall orange lighthouse on the coastline of Iceland sitting on black lava cliffs and with overcast weather — Svortuloft Lighthouse

The two lighthouses here are worth seeing:

Svörtuloft Lighthouse – Tall, orange, and perched above cliffs. Despite arriving early, the site was busy with drone activity. Still, the carved-out cave near the walkway and the rugged cliffs make this an impressive stop.
Öndverðarnesviti Lighthouse – Smaller and simpler, but photogenic when paired with the coastline. I captured fishermen framed against stormy seas and sweeping cloud formations (see the first photo of this blog). The wooden walkway provides a great leading line toward the light.

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Saxhóll Crater: A Volcanic Wonder

Driving back north, we found the Saxhóll Crater. This volcanic cone rises dramatically from otherwise flat lava fields and has an accessible staircase pathway. It’s a short, manageable walk to the rim and offers panoramic views of lava fields, glaciers, and the mountains to the east.

View from on top of a Volcanic Crater in Iceland, looking over a compass dial, East toward mountains — Saxholl Crater view East

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Malarrif Lighthouse and Lóndrangar Cliffs: A Dramatic Landscape

Lord of the Rings looking black lava cobblestone pathway toward rock formations with moss on each side during bad weather — Path to Londrangar

By late afternoon, we aimed for the striking white Malarrif Lighthouse. It rises against the black lava fields. From there, it’s roughly a one-kilometer walk to the Lóndrangar Cliffs. These jagged volcanic rock towers, softened with moss and surrounded by seabird colonies, truly look like something from The Lord of the Rings.

Sunset in Iceland on Snaefellsnes West coast with long, white cylindrical lighthouse appearing blueish with the darker sky — Malarrif Lighthouse

We braved a light rain, which gave the whole scene a dramatic atmosphere. If weather and timing align, sunsets here can be magical. You can enjoy views southward along the cliffs or northward toward the towers themselves. Unfortunately, the weather cut our visit short, but the cliffs alone were worth the stop.

Returning to Grundarfjörður: A Treacherous Journey

Darkness and heavier snow began to fall as we made our way across the northern pass via Route 54. The drive back to Dis Cottages in Grundarfjörður was treacherous with low visibility. But we made it back safely, tired but exhilarated by the day’s journey.

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Sites We Missed but Recommend for Next Time

Even though we covered a lot, the western Snæfellsnes Peninsula holds even more treasures that we didn’t reach but would recommend:

Djúpalónssandur & Dritvík Beaches – Black pebble beaches with dramatic lava formations, rusted shipwreck remains, and the historic “lifting stones” used by Icelandic fishermen to test their strength.
Vatnshellir Lava Cave – An 8,000-year-old lava tube inside Snæfellsjökull National Park. Guided tours take you underground with helmets and lights for a surreal experience.
Hellnar – A charming fishing village with fantastic coastal walks, basalt rock arches, and birdlife thriving on the cliffs.
Snæfellsjökull Glacier – If conditions allow, consider a glacier hike or snowcat tour. Historically, this is famous as the starting point of Jules Verne’s Journey to the Center of the Earth.

Travel Tips for the Western Peninsula

Start early in the day to maximize light, especially in fall and winter when daylight is short.
Weather changes quickly; carry layers and waterproof gear.
Bring snacks and drinks outside of larger villages, as services are limited.
Allow more time than you think—this is not a place to rush, as the landscapes deserve lingering.
Be prepared for challenging road conditions and check travel advisories regularly during winter.